What is the difference between moisture and hydration for curly hair?

Hydration comes from water — the water molecule is small enough to penetrate the hair cuticle and work from the inside out, which is what gives curls definition and reduces frizz. Moisture, on the other hand, comes from the oils and fats in hair products, which wrap around the hair strand and seal that hydration in. Both are necessary, but hydration from water must come first. Applying oil before the hair is properly hydrated creates a barrier that prevents water from getting in.

Does oil hydrate curly hair?

No — oil does not hydrate hair. Oil is hydrophobic, meaning it repels water, so it cannot push into the hair cuticle the way water molecules can. Oil is a moisturizer that can help seal hydration into the hair once it's already there, but applying oil before water or on the scalp can actually block hydration and lead to buildup over time. Lightweight, water-soluble oils used as a finishing step on dry hair are a better approach.

What is the 80/20 rule for styling curly hair?

The 80/20 rule means that at least 80% of what's going into your hair when you style should be water, with products making up no more than 20%. When hair is thoroughly saturated with water first, you need far less product to achieve definition and hold. People who find themselves going through styling products quickly are often under-hydrating their hair and compensating with more product — which can lead to buildup and inconsistent results.

What is hair porosity and how does it affect curl care?

Porosity refers to the hair's ability to absorb and retain water. Low-porosity hair has tightly closed cuticles that resist water absorption, while high-porosity hair absorbs water quickly but loses it just as fast, which can cause frizz. Porosity isn't tied to a specific curl type or texture — any hair can be low or high porosity — and it can even vary across different sections of the same head. Understanding a client's porosity helps a stylist tailor their cleansing approach, water temperature, and product recommendations.

How can a stylist visually assess a client's hair porosity?

Before a client even gets to the shampoo bowl, visual cues like lack of curl definition, frizz, and dull appearance can suggest low porosity. At the bowl, watch how the hair responds when water is applied: if the hair inflates and the water rolls over it rather than absorbing, that's a sign of low porosity. High-porosity hair flattens quickly because it absorbs water fast. Working in sections and using a hand mirror to show clients what their hair is doing in real time can make the consultation much more effective.

How should you wash low-porosity curly hair?

For low-porosity hair, use warmer water at the shampoo bowl to help open the tightly closed cuticle so water can penetrate. Sectioning the hair and working in smaller pieces ensures even saturation rather than just wetting the surface. When applying New Wash, pressing it into sections rather than working it over the whole head at once helps the product and water actually reach the hair shaft.

Which New Wash formula is best for damaged or chemically straightened curly hair?

New Wash (Rich) is highly recommended for curly hair that has been damaged by heat tools, relaxers, or keratin treatments, because it is deeply moisturizing and contains keratin. Even if your strands are on the finer or medium side, you can still use New Wash (Rich) by simply adjusting the amount applied at the roots. New Wash (Deep), which contains apple cider vinegar, can also be used periodically at the roots as a clarifying cleanse, particularly for clients whose texture differs at the scalp versus the ends.

Why is Hair Balm recommended for curly hair?

Hair Balm is a water-soluble cream that wraps around the hair strand and seals in hydration without creating buildup. Because it works with water rather than against it, it's effective for all curl types — from loose waves to coils — and supports definition without weighing the hair down. Using it as the moisture layer after thoroughly saturating hair with water means you need very little product to achieve the result you want.

Can product buildup be mistaken for low-porosity hair?

Yes — this is a common and important distinction. Heavy, non-water-soluble products like raw coconut oil or shea butter can coat the hair so thoroughly that water beads off the strands, mimicking the behavior of low-porosity hair. Before assuming a client has low porosity, it's worth considering whether what you're seeing is actually product buildup preventing water from entering. A clarifying treatment may be necessary to remove layers of buildup before an accurate porosity assessment can be made.

MASTERING CURLY HAIR CARE WITH APRIL KAYGANICH

Name: Mastering Curly Hair Care With April Kayganich
Uploaded: 2025-12-17
Channel: Hairstory
Description: Hairstory's Wes sits down with curly hair specialist April for a deep dive into one of the most misunderstood topics in textured hair care: the difference between moisture and hydration. April breaks down why water — not oil — is the foundation of curl definition, explains how to assess hair poro...

Join us for an exclusive workshop with April Kayganich as she delves into the essential aspects of curly haircare. In this interactive session, April will break down the concept of hair porosity and provide insights into the effective use of oils, moisture and hydration. Can't make it? Don't worry. RSVP and we'll send you the recording.

Home / Virtual Events / Mastering Curly Hair Care With April Kayganich

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Hairstory's Wes sits down with curly hair specialist April for a deep dive into one of the most misunderstood topics in textured hair care: the difference between moisture and hydration. April breaks down why water — not oil — is the foundation of curl definition, explains how to assess hair porosity both visually and at the shampoo bowl, and shares her 80/20 water-to-product ratio for achieving touchable, well-defined curls. She also covers how New Wash (Rich) and New Wash (Deep) fit into a curl care routine, and offers practical guidance on recovering curls damaged by heat tools or chemical straightening. Whether you're a stylist building confidence with textured hair or someone trying to simplify a complicated curl routine, this conversation cuts through the noise with clear, science-backed guidance.

Frequently Asked Questions

What is the difference between moisture and hydration for curly hair?

Hydration comes from water — the water molecule is small enough to penetrate the hair cuticle and work from the inside out, which is what gives curls definition and reduces frizz. Moisture, on the other hand, comes from the oils and fats in hair products, which wrap around the hair strand and seal that hydration in. Both are necessary, but hydration from water must come first. Applying oil before the hair is properly hydrated creates a barrier that prevents water from getting in.
Does oil hydrate curly hair?

No — oil does not hydrate hair. Oil is hydrophobic, meaning it repels water, so it cannot push into the hair cuticle the way water molecules can. Oil is a moisturizer that can help seal hydration into the hair once it's already there, but applying oil before water or on the scalp can actually block hydration and lead to buildup over time. Lightweight, water-soluble oils used as a finishing step on dry hair are a better approach.
What is the 80/20 rule for styling curly hair?

The 80/20 rule means that at least 80% of what's going into your hair when you style should be water, with products making up no more than 20%. When hair is thoroughly saturated with water first, you need far less product to achieve definition and hold. People who find themselves going through styling products quickly are often under-hydrating their hair and compensating with more product — which can lead to buildup and inconsistent results.
What is hair porosity and how does it affect curl care?

Porosity refers to the hair's ability to absorb and retain water. Low-porosity hair has tightly closed cuticles that resist water absorption, while high-porosity hair absorbs water quickly but loses it just as fast, which can cause frizz. Porosity isn't tied to a specific curl type or texture — any hair can be low or high porosity — and it can even vary across different sections of the same head. Understanding a client's porosity helps a stylist tailor their cleansing approach, water temperature, and product recommendations.
How can a stylist visually assess a client's hair porosity?

Before a client even gets to the shampoo bowl, visual cues like lack of curl definition, frizz, and dull appearance can suggest low porosity. At the bowl, watch how the hair responds when water is applied: if the hair inflates and the water rolls over it rather than absorbing, that's a sign of low porosity. High-porosity hair flattens quickly because it absorbs water fast. Working in sections and using a hand mirror to show clients what their hair is doing in real time can make the consultation much more effective.
How should you wash low-porosity curly hair?

For low-porosity hair, use warmer water at the shampoo bowl to help open the tightly closed cuticle so water can penetrate. Sectioning the hair and working in smaller pieces ensures even saturation rather than just wetting the surface. When applying New Wash, pressing it into sections rather than working it over the whole head at once helps the product and water actually reach the hair shaft.
Which New Wash formula is best for damaged or chemically straightened curly hair?

New Wash (Rich) is highly recommended for curly hair that has been damaged by heat tools, relaxers, or keratin treatments, because it is deeply moisturizing and contains keratin. Even if your strands are on the finer or medium side, you can still use New Wash (Rich) by simply adjusting the amount applied at the roots. New Wash (Deep), which contains apple cider vinegar, can also be used periodically at the roots as a clarifying cleanse, particularly for clients whose texture differs at the scalp versus the ends.
Why is Hair Balm recommended for curly hair?

Hair Balm is a water-soluble cream that wraps around the hair strand and seals in hydration without creating buildup. Because it works with water rather than against it, it's effective for all curl types — from loose waves to coils — and supports definition without weighing the hair down. Using it as the moisture layer after thoroughly saturating hair with water means you need very little product to achieve the result you want.
Can product buildup be mistaken for low-porosity hair?

Yes — this is a common and important distinction. Heavy, non-water-soluble products like raw coconut oil or shea butter can coat the hair so thoroughly that water beads off the strands, mimicking the behavior of low-porosity hair. Before assuming a client has low porosity, it's worth considering whether what you're seeing is actually product buildup preventing water from entering. A clarifying treatment may be necessary to remove layers of buildup before an accurate porosity assessment can be made.