What should I look for in a gel for curly hair?

A good curl gel should spread easily, avoid drying the hair out, and create a cast that you can break without the curls feeling brittle or crunchy. It should also provide shine without leaving hair looking wet all day, and hold up in different weather conditions including humidity and sweat.

How do I apply gel to curly hair without it looking wet all day?

The key is proper hydration before applying any product. Use the 80/20 rule: the hair should be about 80% water and 20% product before you style. If you're diffusing, the gel should give shine without making the hair look drenched. Air-drying will result in some initial wetness, but the hair should dry to a touchable finish.

What is the 80/20 rule for styling curly hair?

The 80/20 rule means the hair should be 80% water and 20% product when you begin styling. Water is the foundation — if hair starts drying after washing, you should re-wet it before applying products like Hair Balm or Styling Gel. This ensures better curl definition, longer-lasting results, and properly moisturized hair.

How do you layer Hair Balm and Styling Gel for curly hair?

Start with thoroughly hydrated hair, then apply Hair Balm first to smooth and define. Add water back to the hair if it has started to dry after washing. Follow with Hairstory's Styling Gel on top of the balm — the balm locks in moisture while the gel provides flexible hold that lasts until your next wash day.

Will Hairstory Styling Gel hold curls through a workout?

In testing, curls styled with Hairstory Styling Gel remained intact after a CrossFit class. The gel is designed to hold up in different weather conditions and through physical activity, making it a practical option for people with active lifestyles.

Why does hair start drying right after rinsing out New Wash?

Once you rinse out New Wash, the hair immediately begins to lose moisture as it is exposed to air. This is why it's important to apply your first styling product — such as Hair Balm — quickly, and to add water back into the hair before applying products so you maintain the 80/20 hydration-to-product ratio.

Is a thick, custard-like gel good for all curl types?

Not necessarily. Very thick, custard-style gels are not ideal for all hair types and can result in a cast that feels harsh or difficult to break. A gel that spreads easily and creates a softer, breakable cast tends to work better across a wider range of curl textures and densities.

PRODUCT KNOWLEDGE

A STYLING GEL STORY

Name: A Styling Gel Story
Uploaded: 2025-12-03
Channel: Hairstory
Description: Hairstory's curl specialist shares what she looks for in a styling gel — from consistency and hold to humidity resistance and how it behaves on different curl types. She explains her 80/20 hydration rule (80% water, 20% product) for prepping curly hair before styling, walks through her product te...

Our friend and go-to-curl expert, April Kayganich, gives you a behind the scenes look at our ProLab and her experience putting our new Styling Gel to the test! Dive into what she looks for in a styling gel and her iconic 80/20 rule to achieving the perfect curl - every time!

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Hairstory's curl specialist shares what she looks for in a styling gel — from consistency and hold to humidity resistance and how it behaves on different curl types. She explains her 80/20 hydration rule (80% water, 20% product) for prepping curly hair before styling, walks through her product testing process on clients, and demonstrates how to layer Hair Balm with Styling Gel for definition, moisture retention, and long-lasting curls. This video offers practical guidance for anyone seeking a flexible-hold gel that won't flake, over-cast, or leave hair looking wet all day.

How to Style Curly Hair with Hair Balm and Styling Gel for Long-Lasting Definition

A step-by-step method for styling curly hair using Hairstory Hair Balm and Styling Gel, based on the 80/20 hydration rule for maximum definition, moisture retention, and hold that lasts until your next wash day.

Wash with New Wash

Cleanse hair thoroughly with New Wash using the ASMR method — apply, splash with water to emulsify, massage through hair and scalp for 3 full minutes, then rinse thoroughly. The hair is now clean and hydrated, ready for styling.

Re-wet hair before styling

After rinsing, hair immediately begins to dry. Before applying any product, check that the hair is still saturated — it should be approximately 80% water and 20% product. If the hair has started to dry, re-wet it at the sink or with a spray bottle to restore adequate hydration.

Pro Tip: Water is the base of any good curl style. Skipping this step is one of the most common reasons curls lose definition or feel dry after styling.

Apply Hair Balm

Work Hair Balm through wet hair section by section, distributing it evenly from roots to ends. The balm acts as a moisturizing layer that smooths, defines, and helps lock hydration into the hair before the gel is applied on top.

Apply Styling Gel over the balm

With the Hair Balm still in the hair, apply Styling Gel as the final styling step. Work it through the hair to coat each curl and create hold. The gel will form a cast as the hair dries — this is normal and expected.

Pro Tip: Apply the gel while hair is still very wet for the most even distribution and best curl clumping.

Dry hair — diffuse or air dry

Dry hair using a diffuser for faster results and added volume, or allow to air dry. If diffusing, work in sections and avoid disturbing the curl pattern while the gel cast is still wet. Air drying will result in temporary wetness until the hair is fully dry.

Pro Tip: Diffusing gives shine without the waterlogged look that can come from air drying — ideal when you want finished results faster.

Break the cast

Once hair is fully dry, scrunch the curls gently with your hands to break the gel cast. This releases the curls from their stiff hold into a soft, touchable finish. The result should be defined, moisturized curls with flexible hold that lasts until your next wash day.

Frequently Asked Questions

What should I look for in a gel for curly hair?

A good curl gel should spread easily, avoid drying the hair out, and create a cast that you can break without the curls feeling brittle or crunchy. It should also provide shine without leaving hair looking wet all day, and hold up in different weather conditions including humidity and sweat.
How do I apply gel to curly hair without it looking wet all day?

The key is proper hydration before applying any product. Use the 80/20 rule: the hair should be about 80% water and 20% product before you style. If you're diffusing, the gel should give shine without making the hair look drenched. Air-drying will result in some initial wetness, but the hair should dry to a touchable finish.
What is the 80/20 rule for styling curly hair?

The 80/20 rule means the hair should be 80% water and 20% product when you begin styling. Water is the foundation — if hair starts drying after washing, you should re-wet it before applying products like Hair Balm or Styling Gel. This ensures better curl definition, longer-lasting results, and properly moisturized hair.
How do you layer Hair Balm and Styling Gel for curly hair?

Start with thoroughly hydrated hair, then apply Hair Balm first to smooth and define. Add water back to the hair if it has started to dry after washing. Follow with Hairstory's Styling Gel on top of the balm — the balm locks in moisture while the gel provides flexible hold that lasts until your next wash day.
Will Hairstory Styling Gel hold curls through a workout?

In testing, curls styled with Hairstory Styling Gel remained intact after a CrossFit class. The gel is designed to hold up in different weather conditions and through physical activity, making it a practical option for people with active lifestyles.
Why does hair start drying right after rinsing out New Wash?

Once you rinse out New Wash, the hair immediately begins to lose moisture as it is exposed to air. This is why it's important to apply your first styling product — such as Hair Balm — quickly, and to add water back into the hair before applying products so you maintain the 80/20 hydration-to-product ratio.
Is a thick, custard-like gel good for all curl types?

Not necessarily. Very thick, custard-style gels are not ideal for all hair types and can result in a cast that feels harsh or difficult to break. A gel that spreads easily and creates a softer, breakable cast tends to work better across a wider range of curl textures and densities.