CUTTING CURLY BANGS

Join April Kayganich to learn all about the ins and outs of all things curly bangs. She’ll be sharing a quick and easy primer for cutting the perfect curly bangs every time.

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Curly hair specialist April demonstrates how to cut curtain bangs on curly hair in this live class hosted by Hairstory. Working on a model with medium-density curls, April walks through every step — from consulting on the hairline, sectioning with a soft triangle, cutting dry from underneath to account for shrinkage, and adding a second section for movement and dimension. She also shares her go-to product approach for styling curly bangs using Hair Balm and Root Lift. Whether you're a stylist building confidence with textured hair or a curly-haired client considering bangs for the first time, this video demystifies the process and shows why a thorough consultation is the single most important step.

How to Cut Curtain Bangs on Curly Hair

A step-by-step technique for cutting connected, dimensional curtain bangs on curly hair, accounting for shrinkage and curl pattern to create movement and versatility.

1

Consult and assess the hairline

Before cutting anything, conduct a thorough consultation to establish where the client wants the bangs to fall when dry. Physically show the client on their own face where the bangs will land. Then examine the hairline closely for recession, texture changes, or gaps left by previous haircuts — any of these will affect how the bang sits and whether it is achievable without a corrective approach.

Pro Tip: Check for differences in curl pattern around the hairline, crown, and nape. Hair around the hairline tends to shrink more than the rest because it is usually drier.
2

Complete the rest of the haircut first

Cut the bangs last. Finish all shaping, layering, and graduation on the rest of the hair before touching the fringe. Treating the haircut like a painting — establishing the larger structure before adding the detail — means the bang section will connect naturally to whatever shape is already built.

Pro Tip: Saving the bangs for last also gives you the most accurate read on how the curl pattern is behaving across the whole head before you make any irreversible cuts at the front.
3

Section for the bang

Take a section approximately one inch back from the hairline, following the hairline from one side to the other, and leave the edge hair within that inch out — it will become part of the face framing rather than the bang. Use the outer end of the eyebrow as your guide to create a soft triangle pointing back toward the crown, which determines the back boundary of the bang section. Clip the remaining hair away cleanly.

Pro Tip: Avoid going too far back with the triangle — once the head starts to round, you are past the ideal boundary and will end up with more hair (and more weight) in the bang than intended.
4

Create the center guide

Starting in the middle of the bang section, take a small half-inch subsection. Hold the hair with minimal tension, direct it at roughly 45 degrees from the head, and cut from underneath with an open-and-closing scissor motion rather than a single blunt cut. Cut approximately one inch below where you want the bang to land when dry to allow for shrinkage. This center cut becomes your length guide for the entire bang.

Pro Tip: For looser curls, anticipate half an inch to one inch of shrinkage. For tighter or more coily patterns, allow for up to two inches. You can always cut more — you cannot cut less.
5

Build out the curtain shape

Working from the center guide outward on each side, take half-inch sections, incorporate part of the already-cut guide into each new section, and direct the hair toward the center before cutting from underneath. This retains slightly more length on the sides than the center, which creates the curtain shape. Repeat on both sides symmetrically.

Pro Tip: Directing each section to the center before cutting is what builds in the graduation that gives the curtain its open, face-framing silhouette — skip this step and the bang will cut straight across.
6

Check for stray hairs and connect the framing

Go in front of the client and look head-on for any stray hairs that were missed when cutting from underneath. Trim any outliers so no single strands fall into the client's eyes. Then bring down the one inch of hairline hair that was left out and cut just the minimum number of curls needed to connect the bang to the face framing — usually just one or two curls per side.

Pro Tip: Avoid cutting too far into the length when connecting the framing. Taking too much on the sides creates an 'escalator' step effect that removes length the client may not want gone.
7

Add the second section for movement and dimension

Release the clipped-back second section. Working again from the center, take a small section, direct it slightly away from the head at 45 degrees, relax hand tension, and cut from underneath using the first section as a guide. This adds a subtle internal layer to the bang that creates lift and stops it from lying flat against the head. Repeat on both sides.

Pro Tip: This second section is what separates a dimensional adult curtain bang from a flat, heavy one. It is especially important for clients with thicker or denser curl density.
8

Finish and style

After washing and styling the hair, bring the client back to the chair dry for any final refinements to the bang length. To style the bangs, emulsify a tiny amount of Hair Balm in your hands and smooth it onto the ends of the curls to eliminate frizz and seal the shape. If using Root Lift for volume, apply it to wet hair before diffusing — Root Lift is heat-activated and will feel sticky if used without heat.

Pro Tip: For curls, Hair Balm works best when the hair is soaking wet during the full styling process. When using it as a finishing touch on dry, post-cut bangs, use the smallest possible amount — barely visible on the fingertips — to avoid weighing the curls down.

Frequently Asked Questions

  • Should you cut curly bangs wet or dry?
    Curly bangs should be cut dry. Cutting dry allows the stylist to see exactly how the curl pattern behaves and to accurately anticipate shrinkage. After the dry cut, the client is washed, styled, and brought back to the chair for any final refinements once the curls have dried completely.
  • How much shrinkage should you account for when cutting curly bangs?
    The amount of shrinkage to account for depends on the curl pattern. For looser curls, anticipate roughly half an inch to one inch of shrinkage. For tighter or more coily curl patterns, allow for approximately two inches. Hair around the hairline tends to shrink more than the rest because it is usually a bit drier, so it's always safer to cut longer and refine from there.
  • How do you section hair for curly curtain bangs?
    Start by checking the hairline for any texture changes, recession, or gaps that could affect the result. Take a section about one inch back from the hairline, following the hairline, and leave that edge hair out to be included in the face framing. Use the end of the eyebrow as a guide to create a soft triangle pointing back toward the crown — this keeps the bang section from getting too heavy. Clip the back section away and cut in two sections (or three for a heavier bang) to build in dimension and movement.
  • Why should you cut curly bangs from underneath?
    Cutting from underneath creates a slight staircase effect that opens up the curl and prevents the bang from lying flat against the head. This technique adds lift and movement rather than leaving a blunt, straight-across line, which is especially important for curly hair that can otherwise look dense and solid at the fringe.
  • How do you create symmetry when cutting curly bangs?
    Always start in the center of the bang section to establish a guide first. Using a small half-inch section in the middle and cutting it to the desired length gives you a reference point for both sides. From there, take each adjacent section, bring it to the center guide, and cut from underneath to match — this way both sides are built from the same reference and the curtain shape is balanced.
  • What is the 'escalator' mistake to avoid when cutting curly face framing?
    The 'escalator' is when the face framing cuts too aggressively into the length beside the bang, removing more hair than intended and leaving an unwanted stair-step effect down the side of the head. To avoid this, leave about an inch of hair along the hairline out of the bang section and only cut the minimum needed to connect the framing to the rest of the shape.
  • What products work best for styling curly bangs?
    Hair Balm is the recommended go-to styling cream for curly bangs and curls in general. It is deeply moisturizing, works for all curl types, and can be air dried or diffused. When finishing dry bangs after a cut, emulsify a very small amount of Hair Balm in your hands and smooth it onto the ends of the curls to eliminate frizz. Root Lift is also useful for adding volume and lift, but it is heat-activated — it must be used with a diffuser or blow dryer to work properly, as applying it without heat will leave hair feeling sticky.
  • Why is the consultation so important before cutting curly bangs?
    A thorough consultation is the most important step when cutting curly bangs because shrinkage, hairline shape, and curl pattern all affect the final result in ways that are hard to predict without discussing them first. The stylist should show the client exactly where the bangs will land when dry, explain how much length will be left to allow sweeping to the side, and check the hairline for any recession or texture changes that could affect the look. Setting clear expectations in the consultation is what the stylist is accountable for — the client shows pictures and communicates what they want, but it is the stylist's job to translate that into a realistic plan.