How much New Wash should I use to get my hair clean?

Jane Matthews recommends using about one and a half times the amount you would normally use for shampoo. Because New Wash replaces both shampoo and conditioner in a single step, the general rule is to use 50% more than your normal shampoo amount. If the hair isn't getting fully clean, it's almost always because not enough product was used or it wasn't left on long enough — ideally three full minutes.

Does New Wash work on color-treated hair without fading the color?

Yes — New Wash is safe for color-treated hair because it contains no detergents, which are the main cause of color fading in conventional shampoos. Even shampoos labeled 'color safe' still contain detergents that lift color from the hair shaft. New Wash does not foam, and because it doesn't strip the hair's natural oils, it preserves color significantly longer. The only thing that causes any color fading with New Wash is simply getting the hair wet.

What does Undressed do and how should I apply it for volume?

Undressed is a lightweight texture spray that builds root volume and softly texturizes the hair. Jane Matthews applies it almost exclusively to the roots and crown, using about 15 to 20 squirts throughout the top of the head. She recommends applying it when the hair is about 90% dry, then massaging it in with the fingers in all directions. When fully dry, Undressed leaves hair feeling soft but with a beefed-up, texturized quality rather than flat or parted.

How do I use Hair Balm on a shag haircut?

Jane Matthews uses Hair Balm as a finishing product for the mid-lengths and ends, starting with a pea-sized amount (or a large chickpea for longer or thicker hair) warmed between the palms like hand lotion. She works it through the ends using the flat of her hand, adding more as needed until the ends have a slightly satiny, coated feel — supple and soft, but with visible separation and definition. She avoids applying it to the bang area, as the forehead can add unwanted oiliness there.

What is the right way to hand-style a shag without making it frizzy?

The key is to use the flat of your hand and a 'flipper' or karate-chop motion to smush the hair into shape, rather than picking at it with fingertips, which creates frizz. Jane Matthews also emphasizes trusting the process: hair dries wet, then frizzy, then smooth as the cuticle closes — so continuing to work through the frizzy stage will result in a smooth, textured finish. Over-manipulating or abandoning the technique at the frizzy stage is the most common reason hand styling doesn't work.

Does New Wash work for fine or oily hair?

Yes — Jane Matthews says New Wash works for fine, oily, and all other hair types, as long as enough product is used. For fine hair that gets oily quickly, her recommendation is to combine New Wash with plenty of Undressed applied at the roots, which absorbs excess oils and builds volume at the same time. For very flat or oily hair where Undressed isn't quite enough, she also recommends Powder for extra root lift and absorption.

When during air drying should I apply styling products?

Jane Matthews recommends waiting until the hair is about 90% dry before applying Undressed and Hair Balm, because water in the hair dilutes the products and reduces their effectiveness. If you need to get out the door quickly and can't wait, apply the products while the hair is still damp — but for best results, let it air dry almost completely first and then work the products in with your hands.

Why does my hair still look fuzzy after using New Wash?

Some hair is naturally fuzzy regardless of the cleanser used. However, using New Wash instead of traditional shampoo will significantly reduce fuzz — shampoo strips the hair's natural oils, making frizz worse, whereas New Wash preserves them. If fuzziness persists, Jane Matthews suggests that Hair Balm can help make fuzzy hair more malleable and touchable. She also notes that if styling results are still off, the issue is often the haircut itself rather than the product or technique.

HANDSTYLING WITH JAYNE MATTHEWS: CONTROLLING FRIZZ AND CREATING LIFT

Name: HANDSTYLING WITH JAYNE MATTHEWS: CONTROLLING FRIZZ AND CREATING LIFT
Uploaded: 2025-12-17
Channel: Hairstory
Description: Hairstory's Jane Matthews — San Francisco salon owner and razor-cut specialist — demonstrates how to hand-style a layered shag haircut on straight, fine-textured hair using New Wash (Original), Undressed, and Hair Balm. Working from roughly 90% dry hair, Jane shows how to build root volume with U...

Watch Jayne Matthews demo live how to hand style and bring out natural texture. Enjoy special savings on all Hairstory products during the event! Q&A led by Hairstory stylist Wes Sharpton.

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Hairstory's Jane Matthews — San Francisco salon owner and razor-cut specialist — demonstrates how to hand-style a layered shag haircut on straight, fine-textured hair using New Wash (Original), Undressed, and Hair Balm. Working from roughly 90% dry hair, Jane shows how to build root volume with Undressed, define and soften the ends with Hair Balm, and sculpt the overall shape using flat-hand and pincher techniques rather than a brush or round brush. Along the way, she addresses common styling questions: why New Wash requires more product than expected, why the detergent-free formula is the best option for color-treated hair, and how to push through the "frizzy stage" of air drying to reach a smooth, natural finish.

How to Hand-Style a Shag Haircut Using Undressed and Hair Balm

Jane Matthews demonstrates how to build root volume, define texture, and finish a layered shag haircut using hand-styling techniques with Undressed and Hair Balm — no round brush or curling iron required.

Cleanse with New Wash and let hair air dry to 90%

Cleanse the hair with New Wash (Original), using about one and a half times the amount you would normally use for shampoo. Work it through the hair and scalp for three full minutes, then rinse thoroughly. Let the hair air dry — or use a diffuser without a brush — until it is about 90% dry before adding any styling products. Water in the hair dilutes product performance, so patience here pays off.

Pro Tip: If you are in a hurry, you can apply products to damp hair, but 90% dry is the sweet spot for getting the most out of Undressed and Hair Balm.

Apply Undressed generously to the roots and crown

Starting with the crown and top sections, lift the hair in small sections and spray Undressed directly at the roots — about 3 squirts per section, working all the way around the crown. Do not worry about being precise; the goal is generous, even coverage throughout the entire area where you want volume. For longer hair, expect to use 15 to 20 squirts total. For shorter hair, 12 to 15 squirts is a good starting point.

Pro Tip: Focus Undressed almost exclusively on the roots rather than the mid-lengths or ends. The roots are where volume is built; the ends are handled with Hair Balm.

Massage Undressed into the roots with your hands

Using your fingers and the flat of your palms, massage the Undressed into the roots in all directions — not just straight back or straight up. Use pincher hands to grip sections and press the product in, and use a flipper or karate-chop motion with the side of your hand to smush the hair into the shape you want. Make the volume deliberately bigger than you ultimately want, because gravity will bring it down as it settles.

Pro Tip: Do not pick at the hair with your fingertips — that creates frizz. Use the flat surface of your hand to press, push, and sculpt.

Let the hair pass through its frizzy stage

As the Undressed works into the hair, it will go through a frizzy, wet-looking phase before the cuticle closes and the hair smooths down. Do not panic and reach for a curling iron at this point. Keep gently working the hair with your hands, trusting that it will settle into its shape. Continuing past the frizzy stage is the most important part of successful hand styling.

Apply Hair Balm to the mid-lengths and ends

Take a pea-sized amount of Hair Balm for fine or shorter hair, or a larger amount (about the size of a large chickpea) for long or thick hair. Warm it between your palms as you would hand lotion, then press it through the mid-lengths and ends using the flat of your hand. Add more as needed: the right amount is when the ends feel slightly satiny and coated — supple and soft, but with visible definition and separation between sections.

Pro Tip: Avoid applying Hair Balm to the bang area, where contact with the forehead can make the product feel heavier than intended.

Style the bangs forward and shape the face frame

To find the right starting point for the bang section, place a comb flat on top of the head and note where it breaks away from the skull — that is where the hair starts growing forward. Comb the bangs straight down from that point, apply a small amount of Undressed if needed, and squish them upward with your thumbs. Use the mirror to check symmetry, cheekbone framing, and where you may need a little more lift. Avoid applying Hair Balm to the bangs.

Add volume with optional backcomb and brush finish

For a more elevated finish, lift the crown section and use a boar bristle brush to lightly backcombed underneath for extra lift. Then smooth the surface gently with the brush to blend any fuzz into the shape. This step is optional and works well for photo-ready styling or when the client wants extra volume. Jane Matthews notes she makes the hair deliberately larger than the final desired size, since it will settle slightly after the appointment.

Pro Tip: For curlier hair, have the client bend forward with a flat back, look straight down, and squeeze the hair from underneath — this brings the face-framing sections forward and amplifies volume through the crown simultaneously.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much New Wash should I use to get my hair clean?

Jane Matthews recommends using about one and a half times the amount you would normally use for shampoo. Because New Wash replaces both shampoo and conditioner in a single step, the general rule is to use 50% more than your normal shampoo amount. If the hair isn't getting fully clean, it's almost always because not enough product was used or it wasn't left on long enough — ideally three full minutes.
Does New Wash work on color-treated hair without fading the color?

Yes — New Wash is safe for color-treated hair because it contains no detergents, which are the main cause of color fading in conventional shampoos. Even shampoos labeled 'color safe' still contain detergents that lift color from the hair shaft. New Wash does not foam, and because it doesn't strip the hair's natural oils, it preserves color significantly longer. The only thing that causes any color fading with New Wash is simply getting the hair wet.
What does Undressed do and how should I apply it for volume?

Undressed is a lightweight texture spray that builds root volume and softly texturizes the hair. Jane Matthews applies it almost exclusively to the roots and crown, using about 15 to 20 squirts throughout the top of the head. She recommends applying it when the hair is about 90% dry, then massaging it in with the fingers in all directions. When fully dry, Undressed leaves hair feeling soft but with a beefed-up, texturized quality rather than flat or parted.
How do I use Hair Balm on a shag haircut?

Jane Matthews uses Hair Balm as a finishing product for the mid-lengths and ends, starting with a pea-sized amount (or a large chickpea for longer or thicker hair) warmed between the palms like hand lotion. She works it through the ends using the flat of her hand, adding more as needed until the ends have a slightly satiny, coated feel — supple and soft, but with visible separation and definition. She avoids applying it to the bang area, as the forehead can add unwanted oiliness there.
What is the right way to hand-style a shag without making it frizzy?

The key is to use the flat of your hand and a 'flipper' or karate-chop motion to smush the hair into shape, rather than picking at it with fingertips, which creates frizz. Jane Matthews also emphasizes trusting the process: hair dries wet, then frizzy, then smooth as the cuticle closes — so continuing to work through the frizzy stage will result in a smooth, textured finish. Over-manipulating or abandoning the technique at the frizzy stage is the most common reason hand styling doesn't work.
Does New Wash work for fine or oily hair?

Yes — Jane Matthews says New Wash works for fine, oily, and all other hair types, as long as enough product is used. For fine hair that gets oily quickly, her recommendation is to combine New Wash with plenty of Undressed applied at the roots, which absorbs excess oils and builds volume at the same time. For very flat or oily hair where Undressed isn't quite enough, she also recommends Powder for extra root lift and absorption.
When during air drying should I apply styling products?

Jane Matthews recommends waiting until the hair is about 90% dry before applying Undressed and Hair Balm, because water in the hair dilutes the products and reduces their effectiveness. If you need to get out the door quickly and can't wait, apply the products while the hair is still damp — but for best results, let it air dry almost completely first and then work the products in with your hands.
Why does my hair still look fuzzy after using New Wash?

Some hair is naturally fuzzy regardless of the cleanser used. However, using New Wash instead of traditional shampoo will significantly reduce fuzz — shampoo strips the hair's natural oils, making frizz worse, whereas New Wash preserves them. If fuzziness persists, Jane Matthews suggests that Hair Balm can help make fuzzy hair more malleable and touchable. She also notes that if styling results are still off, the issue is often the haircut itself rather than the product or technique.