Why cut hair dry instead of washing it first?

Cutting hair dry allows the stylist to see exactly how the hair actually lives — its cowlicks, natural fall, and curl pattern — without those characteristics being erased by washing and blow-drying. Washing before a haircut can remove critical information about how the hair will behave at home on any given day. Brie uses light misting with a water bottle only when she needs tension for her razor, keeping the roots dry throughout.

What is the difference between a shag and a mullet haircut?

The key difference comes down to where the shortest layers land in front of the ear. A shag keeps the shorter face-framing pieces relatively contained — typically no shorter than the ear level — while a mullet extends shorter layers further back on the sides. Many clients want the texture and movement of a shag without the commitment of a mullet, so the stylist should clarify early in the consultation whether the client means 'more layers' or 'layers that go further back.'

How do you add face-framing layers without removing too much length?

The technique shown involves starting with short front pieces — sometimes called curtain pieces or face-framing strands — that begin at the cheekbone level, then setting a face-framing guide at the hairline from ear to ear. From there, all the remaining hair is over-directed forward at roughly 90 degrees from the head and cut to blend from the guide, retaining length toward the back. This creates the visual effect of layering and movement without actually taking off significant length from the sides or back.

How do you use a razor to remove weight and add volume without shortening the hair?

Rather than cutting shorter, Brie picks up sections of heavier or 'floppy' areas, elevates them from the head, and cuts diffused channels into the interior of the section using the very tip of the razor blade with a light, dragging motion. This removes pockets of density from within the section — similar in concept to thinning shears but with a softer, less defined result — allowing the hair to lift and puff up without affecting the perimeter length.

When should you use a razor versus scissors for a layered cut?

A razor is preferable for thick, heavy hair that needs movement and tapering, or for clients who want an effortless, air-dry-friendly result. Scissors — especially for a blunt finish — are better when a client's ends are already thin or transparent from growing out, when executing a precise style like a French bob, or when clients are concerned about the diffused, softer ends that a razor produces. Both tools can be combined: using the razor for the main shape and scissors to seal the ends with a cleaner finish.

How do you handle the consultation when a client says 'do whatever you want'?

Even when a client gives full creative freedom, it's worth gathering a few quick guidelines — especially around length — to avoid misalignment. A useful technique is to physically grab a section and show them where you're thinking of cutting, then ask 'too long or too short?' rather than asking them to describe it in words. This grounds the conversation in something tangible and gives clients a real opportunity to respond, rather than feeling like they need to speak a technical language they don't know.

How do you transition clients away from expecting their hair to be washed at every appointment?

Brie's approach is to simply start doing it without making it a big announcement. She begins by brushing through the client's hair and talking through the process naturally. If clients ask why she's not washing, she explains that she prefers to see the true nature of the hair to give a better cut. Most clients don't ask at all. The value proposition for clients is that cutting dry means the haircut will actually work with how they wear their hair at home every day.

How do you use Undressed and Hair Balm together to finish a cut?

Brie finishes by applying a small amount of Undressed spray to reactivate the curl pattern and add texture, then follows with a pinch of Hair Balm to seal everything and add a light hold. Hair Balm works as a sealer and is applied to slightly damp or misted hair rather than fully wet hair in this finishing context. This two-step combination brings back the wave or curl without weighing the hair down.

What is Powder best used for, and should it be used on wet hair?

Powder is best used on dry hair for root lift and texture. Brie does not recommend using it on wet hair, as mixing it with moisture can create a paste-like consistency. Some stylists do intentionally mix Powder with water to create a texture paste, but Brie's preference is to apply it to dry hair only, where its finely milled texture gives a clean, volumizing result without clumping. For wet-hair texture, Undressed or Root Lift are better alternatives.

EFFORTLESS TEXTURE

Name: Effortless Texture
Uploaded: 2025-12-17
Channel: Hairstory
Description: Hairstory's Wes hosts hairstylist Bree for a live class demonstrating her approach to cutting a textured, layered shag on naturally wavy hair. Working almost entirely dry with a feather razor, Bree walks through her consultation method, face-framing technique (including short curtain pieces she c...

Let Bree Ritter show you how to create effortless, organic texture. Her strategy is designed to emphasize each client’s own, personal style.

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Hairstory's Wes hosts hairstylist Bree for a live class demonstrating her approach to cutting a textured, layered shag on naturally wavy hair. Working almost entirely dry with a feather razor, Bree walks through her consultation method, face-framing technique (including short curtain pieces she calls "shit strands"), over-direction for long layers without sacrificing length, and how to use the razor to cut pockets of air and remove weight without shortening the perimeter. She closes with a product Q&A covering how she uses Undressed and Hair Balm as a finishing combination, when and why she uses Powder and Wax, and her preference for New Wash over shampoo across her entire clientele. Whether you're a stylist learning dry razor technique or looking to refine your layered shag approach, this class delivers a full look at Brie's philosophy and process.

How to Cut a Layered Shag with Face Framing on Wavy Hair Using a Razor

A step-by-step dry razor-cutting technique for creating a textured, layered shag with face-framing pieces and internal weight removal, designed to work with the hair's natural pattern.

Consult and establish length boundaries

Begin by brushing through the hair to assess its natural fall, density, and any cowlicks — this is also a natural opportunity to gather information about how the client styles their hair and whether they wear it up. Rather than asking the client to describe their desired length in words, physically pick up a section and hold it at your instinctive cutting point, then ask 'too long or too short?' This gets an honest, grounded answer without requiring the client to speak technical hairdressing language.

Pro Tip: Clarify early whether the client wants a shag (face-framing layers contained around the ear) or is open to a mullet (shorter layers that extend further back). Many clients use these terms interchangeably when they really mean 'more layers.'

Cut the short face-framing pieces first

Section out the front pieces that will become the shortest face-framing strands — from roughly the ear forward on each side. Pinch each piece where it naturally falls and take it to where you want it to land (typically cheekbone to just below the eye). Cut these short pieces first, on their own, without connecting them to the rest of the hair yet. These establish the front of the face frame and will serve as the guide for everything that follows.

Pro Tip: Over-direct these pieces slightly when cutting to avoid going too short. Since you can always take more off, err on the longer side and refine after you see how they fall.

Establish the perimeter guide

Section a thin horseshoe from the hairline — top of the head down to behind each ear — and bring this hair straight forward. This becomes your perimeter guide and is the foundation from which all the layering will elevate. Use a razor or scissors to refine any corners or unevenness in this guide, working in small sections and checking symmetry frequently in the mirror. This guide protects the length while all the layering is added above it.

Pro Tip: Spend extra time on this section, particularly around the face. Getting the face-framing guide right early earns the client's trust before you move into the rest of the cut.

Layer the sides and back with over-direction

Part the hair from the top of the head down to behind the ear on each side, clipping the back section away. Pull all the hair on each side straight forward — over-directing it — at roughly 90 degrees from the head. Using your perimeter guide as the length anchor, razor or cut through each section forward from the guide. This technique retains length at the back while creating face-framing graduation at the sides. Repeat on both sides.

Pro Tip: Keep your body position flexible — move around your client to maintain a comfortable cutting angle rather than forcing your arm into awkward positions. If one side feels wrong, swap your body position to come at it from the other direction.

Add layers to the back with over-direction

Release the back section. Pull everything straight forward to meet the side guide and continue layering through the back using the same over-direction technique. Work in sections, keeping everything elevated forward to retain length at the perimeter while building movement through the interior. Check symmetry frequently by comparing left and right and by pulling sections up from the crown.

Pro Tip: If you notice a section that still feels heavy or floppy after layering, you can pull it straight up from the crown and connect it to the top of the guide to balance it, rather than shortening the perimeter further.

Remove interior weight with diffused razor channels

For any sections that remain too heavy or dense — particularly through the back and sides — elevate the section from the head and use the very tip of the razor blade to cut light, diffused channels through the interior of the hair, working mid-section and avoiding the top layer entirely. This is not thinning from the ends: you are creating pockets of air inside the section so it lifts and moves rather than sits flat. Use a dragging, open motion rather than pressing the blade in firmly.

Pro Tip: Check frequently by letting the section fall and observing it in the mirror. Because this technique is very diffused, you can always go back for more — and a section that looks identical on both sides in the mirror may not need the same amount of work on both sides.

Detail and refine with micro-cutting

Once the overall shape is set, go through the entire cut section by section — particularly the face framing and any areas that still feel thick — and chip away at individual pieces with small cuts from the back or underside using the razor tip. Think of this phase as like doing a bubble cut around a shape first to remove bulk, then closing in with precision. Invite the client to touch their hair and point out anything that still feels heavy.

Pro Tip: Over-directing individual pieces and hitting them from the underside during this detailing phase prevents any short pieces from poking straight up. Always come from underneath when cutting into a shorter section.

Finish and style

Mist the hair lightly with water if needed to reactivate the curl or wave, then apply a small amount of Undressed to bring the texture back and add movement. Follow with a pinch of Hair Balm — emulsified in the hands first — to seal the style and add a light hold. Hair Balm works best applied to slightly damp hair in this finishing context. Let the client move their hair forward and shake it into its natural shape before making any final refinements.

Pro Tip: For clients with finer or more delicate waves, emulsifying the Hair Balm thoroughly before applying prevents any heaviness. The amount should be minimal — this is a sealing step, not a styling step.

Frequently Asked Questions

Why cut hair dry instead of washing it first?

Cutting hair dry allows the stylist to see exactly how the hair actually lives — its cowlicks, natural fall, and curl pattern — without those characteristics being erased by washing and blow-drying. Washing before a haircut can remove critical information about how the hair will behave at home on any given day. Brie uses light misting with a water bottle only when she needs tension for her razor, keeping the roots dry throughout.
What is the difference between a shag and a mullet haircut?

The key difference comes down to where the shortest layers land in front of the ear. A shag keeps the shorter face-framing pieces relatively contained — typically no shorter than the ear level — while a mullet extends shorter layers further back on the sides. Many clients want the texture and movement of a shag without the commitment of a mullet, so the stylist should clarify early in the consultation whether the client means 'more layers' or 'layers that go further back.'
How do you add face-framing layers without removing too much length?

The technique shown involves starting with short front pieces — sometimes called curtain pieces or face-framing strands — that begin at the cheekbone level, then setting a face-framing guide at the hairline from ear to ear. From there, all the remaining hair is over-directed forward at roughly 90 degrees from the head and cut to blend from the guide, retaining length toward the back. This creates the visual effect of layering and movement without actually taking off significant length from the sides or back.
How do you use a razor to remove weight and add volume without shortening the hair?

Rather than cutting shorter, Brie picks up sections of heavier or 'floppy' areas, elevates them from the head, and cuts diffused channels into the interior of the section using the very tip of the razor blade with a light, dragging motion. This removes pockets of density from within the section — similar in concept to thinning shears but with a softer, less defined result — allowing the hair to lift and puff up without affecting the perimeter length.
When should you use a razor versus scissors for a layered cut?

A razor is preferable for thick, heavy hair that needs movement and tapering, or for clients who want an effortless, air-dry-friendly result. Scissors — especially for a blunt finish — are better when a client's ends are already thin or transparent from growing out, when executing a precise style like a French bob, or when clients are concerned about the diffused, softer ends that a razor produces. Both tools can be combined: using the razor for the main shape and scissors to seal the ends with a cleaner finish.
How do you handle the consultation when a client says 'do whatever you want'?

Even when a client gives full creative freedom, it's worth gathering a few quick guidelines — especially around length — to avoid misalignment. A useful technique is to physically grab a section and show them where you're thinking of cutting, then ask 'too long or too short?' rather than asking them to describe it in words. This grounds the conversation in something tangible and gives clients a real opportunity to respond, rather than feeling like they need to speak a technical language they don't know.
How do you transition clients away from expecting their hair to be washed at every appointment?

Brie's approach is to simply start doing it without making it a big announcement. She begins by brushing through the client's hair and talking through the process naturally. If clients ask why she's not washing, she explains that she prefers to see the true nature of the hair to give a better cut. Most clients don't ask at all. The value proposition for clients is that cutting dry means the haircut will actually work with how they wear their hair at home every day.
How do you use Undressed and Hair Balm together to finish a cut?

Brie finishes by applying a small amount of Undressed spray to reactivate the curl pattern and add texture, then follows with a pinch of Hair Balm to seal everything and add a light hold. Hair Balm works as a sealer and is applied to slightly damp or misted hair rather than fully wet hair in this finishing context. This two-step combination brings back the wave or curl without weighing the hair down.
What is Powder best used for, and should it be used on wet hair?

Powder is best used on dry hair for root lift and texture. Brie does not recommend using it on wet hair, as mixing it with moisture can create a paste-like consistency. Some stylists do intentionally mix Powder with water to create a texture paste, but Brie's preference is to apply it to dry hair only, where its finely milled texture gives a clean, volumizing result without clumping. For wet-hair texture, Undressed or Root Lift are better alternatives.