ABCS OF COILY STYLING

These are four points along the texture spectrum, each with loose, medium, and tight variations. A wave is the loosest — a stretched, open S-shape — and sits closest to straight hair on the oil scale, meaning it naturally carries more oil. A curl has a tighter spiral and begins to carry less natural oil. A coil sits between curl and kink — it has a more compact helical pattern and carries even less natural oil. A kink is the tightest and most compact pattern, carrying the least natural oil of all. Understanding where a client falls on this spectrum is the foundation for every product and care decision.

New Wash Rich is Maddie's primary recommendation for coily hair. It delivers hydration and has an oil content that keeps the cuticle intact without disturbing it, making it ideal for medium to tight coils. New Wash Deep is recommended as a follow-up or rotation formula — particularly for high-porosity coily hair or color-treated or bleached coils — because its apple cider vinegar content has a low pH that seals the cuticle down after Rich opens and hydrates it. The strategy is: use Rich to add moisture, then use Deep to lock it in. For seasonal adjustments, hairdressers can suggest clients swap between Original and Rich depending on how dry or oily their hair feels.

The tighter the curl pattern, the less natural sebum (oil) the scalp produces that travels down the hair shaft. Straight and wavy hair naturally coats itself in oil because the shaft is smooth enough for sebum to travel. Coily and kinky hair, by contrast, has a tightly coiled structure that prevents sebum from distributing along the strand — meaning the hair is naturally more dehydrated. This is why adding oils is not a cosmetic choice but a functional necessity. Maddie's go-to oils for coils and kinks are avocado oil (rich and penetrating), jojoba oil (lightweight and similar in structure to sebum), and castor oil (thick and sealing). These supplement what the scalp cannot deliver on its own.

Porosity refers to the absorption rate of the hair — how readily the hair accepts and retains water, moisture, and product. It is determined by how raised or flat the cuticle layer sits on the hair shaft. Low porosity means the cuticle is tightly closed, making it harder for moisture to enter but also easier to retain once in. Medium porosity is balanced. High porosity means the cuticle is wide open, so moisture absorbs quickly but also escapes quickly. Coily hair — especially color-treated or bleached coily hair — tends toward high porosity. For high-porosity hair, the goal is to add moisture with New Wash Rich, then use New Wash Deep to seal the cuticle and lock that moisture in before it evaporates.

Maddie recommends wet-assessing the hair as the most reliable method. When dry, coily hair often appears compacted and undefined. Once water hits the hair, the curl pattern becomes visible and shrinkage reveals the true texture. To assess density, section the hair and observe whether you can see the scalp easily (low), partially (medium), or not at all (high). For porosity, watch how the hair responds to water — if it frizzes and water beads initially before soaking in, porosity is likely high. Strand circumference (width) is assessed by rolling a single strand between the fingers: fine hair is barely felt, medium has some texture, and coarse hair rolls with clear resistance. All five factors — texture type, moisture level, density, porosity, and width — together determine which products and how much of each to use.

Start with thoroughly wetted hair — water is always the base. Apply New Wash Rich through the hair, working it in to hydrate and begin defining the coil pattern. Then apply Hair Balm for a soft, fluffy set; Hair Balm provides a cream-style hold without stiffness, making it ideal for a twist-out that has volume and movement. Section the hair and twist with firm tension for a leaner, more stretched result, or with lighter tension for a fluffier, more voluminous result. Seal the ends of each twist carefully — the ends are the most fragile part of coily hair and preserving them protects length. To release, uncoil each twist gently without disturbing the curl, letting it unwind around itself. A wide-tooth rake or pick comb is recommended for lifting and separating the finished style without disrupting the curl pattern.

Maddie maps New Wash formulas to the texture spectrum based on oil levels. For wavy hair (closest to straight, naturally more oily): New Wash Deep for oil control, New Wash Original for balanced moisture. For curly hair: New Wash Original for loose to medium curls, shifting toward New Wash Rich at the mid-lengths and ends for tight curls that need more moisture. For coily hair: New Wash Rich as the primary formula, with New Wash Deep layered in for high-porosity or bleached hair to seal the cuticle. For kinky hair (least natural oil): primarily New Wash Rich, heavy supplemental oils, and deep conditioners. The consistent principle across all textures is: more oil in the natural hair pattern means less supplemental oil needed; tighter patterns require more oil addition.

Yes — Maddie compares it to switching face moisturizers between seasons. Coily hair clients using New Wash Original may find it sufficient in warmer months but notice dryness in winter. When that happens, switching to New Wash Rich during colder, drier months addresses the seasonal shift in how much moisture the hair needs. The reverse applies in summer, when some clients may find Rich too heavy and benefit from reverting to Original. This kind of seasonal rotation is a simple, client-centered way to keep coily hair balanced year-round without changing the entire routine.