A Letter to Susan on Aging and Going Grey

A Letter to Susan on Aging and Going Grey

By Wes Sharpton

Hairstory stylist Wes Sharpton answers a reader's heartfelt question about graying and thinning hair — with the science behind what's happening, honest advice for fine hair care, and a reminder that what feels like loss can look like something else entirely from across the table.

Published on May 28, 2026 — 4 min read

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Dear Susan,

I was sitting across the dinner table from my mother not long ago. She's in her seventies. Her hair is completely silver, worn short the way she's always worn it.

And I just sat there looking at her, thinking — wow. This looks so good on you.

Distinguished. Authentic. Beautiful. And maybe I'm a little biased, but I don't think so.

I didn't say it out loud, I just thought it. Your note reminded me I should fix that.

Your question hit me somewhere real. You didn't go to your hairdresser and say make it grayer, make it finer. You didn't choose this. It was chosen for you. And when something that's been part of how you announce yourself to the world starts shifting beyond your control — that shakes people. It's okay to say that out loud.

Here's something that helps me, and maybe it'll help you too. When things are happening to us, and we don't understand them, we feel like we've lost the wheel. But sometimes just knowing what's going on, the actual science of it, puts us back in the driver's seat a little. Not all the way. But enough.

What's Actually Happening to Your Hair

What's happening to your hair is real. Your melanocyte stem cells lose the ability to produce pigment over time, and a 2023 study in The Scientist explains exactly how, if you're curious. Think of it like this: your stem cells are like a reservoir of cells that color every single hair strand as it grows. The strand you're growing now is genuinely different material from the one you grew decades ago.

And for women, hormonal shifts layer on top of that. As estrogen declines, follicles miniaturize. Each new strand comes in finer. Medium-fine becomes fine. Fine becomes finer-than-fine. Harvard Health has written about this.

Our founder, Eli, has written about his own version of it on his Substack, including a conversation about low-dose oral minoxidil prescribed off-label for pattern hair loss. It's worth bringing to your dermatologist if that feels like a road worth exploring.

The Practical Part: What Fine Hair Actually Needs

With fine hair, the instinct is always to pile on. More product, more hold, more of everything. I've watched that backfire in the chair more times than I can count. Think of it like this: fine hair is a lightweight fabric. You wouldn't press silk the same way you'd iron denim. What it actually needs is a clean, healthy scalp as its foundation. Everything builds from there.

You already know New Wash, and as someone who's watched it work on a lot of fine-haired clients, I'll tell you it does something most cleansers don't. It cleans without stripping. For someone with pool exposure on top of hormonal changes, that balance matters more, not less. Original is usually the right place to start unless you're running particularly oily.

Short hair reads thicker. Always has. If a bob is something you'd consider, it's not a concession, it's a cheat code. And if you want root volume without a lot of technical effort, our Powder creates instant volume at the base. Just wash it back out within a day or two. Let the scalp do its thing.

The Story Running in Your Head

The story running in your head right now, the one where everyone notices, where you used to have something you've now lost, I hear that from the chair all the time. But maybe, just maybe, the people looking at you across the table aren't thinking about what you've lost at all.

Maybe they're thinking about what you've gained.

Now, if you'll excuse me, I've got to go tell someone I love very much that her gray hair is beautiful.

Sincerely,


The information in this article is for educational purposes only and is not intended as medical advice. Always consult a board-certified dermatologist or qualified healthcare provider if you have concerns about your hair or scalp health.

Frequently Asked Questions

  • Why does hair turn gray as you age?
    Hair turns gray because melanocyte stem cells gradually lose their ability to produce pigment over time. These stem cells act like a reservoir that colors each new strand as it grows, so the hair you're growing now is genuinely different material from the hair you grew decades ago. A 2023 study in The Scientist explains the mechanism in detail.
  • Why does hair get finer and thinner as women age?
    For women, hormonal shifts — particularly declining estrogen — cause hair follicles to miniaturize, which means each new strand comes in finer than before. This is a separate process from graying, but the two often happen simultaneously. Harvard Health has written about this as part of female pattern hair loss.
  • What is the best way to wash fine aging hair without stripping it?
    Fine hair needs a clean, healthy scalp as its foundation — everything builds from there. New Wash by Hairstory is a detergent-free cleansing cream that cleans without stripping, which makes it especially well-suited for fine or hormonally thinning hair. New Wash (Original) is typically the right starting point unless hair runs particularly oily.
  • Which New Wash formula is best for fine hair?
    New Wash (Original) is generally the recommended starting point for fine hair. It's a detergent-free cleansing cream that works for normal to thick hair and cleans without over-stripping — a balance that matters when hair is already fine or becoming finer due to hormonal changes.
  • How can I add volume to fine hair without a lot of effort?
    Powder is a simple, effective option — it creates instant volume at the root base without a complicated technique. The key is to wash it back out within a day or two so the scalp can function normally. For fine hair, less product is almost always better than more.
  • Does a shorter haircut actually make fine hair look thicker?
    Yes — short hair reads as thicker, and this holds true across hair types and textures. A bob or shorter cut isn't a concession for someone with thinning hair; it's a practical styling advantage that makes fine hair appear fuller and more voluminous with less effort.
  • Is low-dose oral minoxidil an option for age-related hair thinning in women?
    Low-dose oral minoxidil is sometimes prescribed off-label for pattern hair loss, and it may be worth discussing with a dermatologist if hair thinning is a concern. It's not a one-size-fits-all solution, but it's a legitimate conversation to have with a medical professional who can evaluate your specific situation.

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