Does Co-Washing Actually Clean Your Hair? Why Most Formulas Condition, Not Cleanse

Does Co-Washing Actually Clean Your Hair? Why Most Formulas Condition, Not Cleanse

By Hairstory

Co-washes promise gentle cleansing without stripping curls, but the ingredient lists tell a different story. We broke down nine popular formulas — from Cantu to DevaCurl — to see what's actually cleansing, conditioning, or just building up. Here's how they compare to New Wash's detergent-free approach.

Published on August 06, 2026 — 9 min read

Share this article

Home / The Archive / Does Co-Washing Actually Clean Your Hair? Why Most Formulas Condition, Not Cleanse

A co-wash is a conditioner formulated to double as a light cleanser, typically built on conditioning agents rather than true detergents. That distinction matters: most co-washes sit on the conditioning end of what Hairstory calls the cleansing-to-conditioning continuum, which means the "cleansing" language on the label doesn't always match what the formula is doing on the hair and scalp. Below, we broke down the full ingredient list of 9 popular co-washes against our Allure's Best of Beauty Award-winning New Wash to see what's actually inside each bottle.

The Comparison

Ranked from highest to lowest Clean Factor score
Product Price Size Sustainability Sulfates Synthetic Fragrance / Dye Clean Factor Verdict
New Wash $48 8 oz Vegan Leaping Bunny Certified No No 100%

Cleans with fatty alcohols and essential oils instead of detergents. No separate conditioner needed.
Aveda Be Curly Advanced™ Co-Wash $50 11.8 fl oz Vegan Leaping Bunny Certified No Yes (Fragrance) 86%

Uses a sugar-derived, sulfate-free detergent. Contains synthetic fragrance and several fragrance-allergen compounds.
Curlsmith Curl Quenching Cleansing Conditioning Wash $26 12 oz Vegan Leaping Bunny Certified No Yes (Fragrance) 71%

Uses a mild detergent. Brand directions recommend a separate conditioner for very dry hair. Preserved with a synthetic chelating agent (EDTA).
DevaCurl Deva No-Poo Original Shampoo $28 12 oz Vegan Leaping Bunny Certified No Yes (Fragrance) 71%

Uses mild, sulfate-free detergents. Preserved with synthetic chelating agents.
Briogeo Avocado and Quinoa Co-Wash $32 16 oz Vegan Leaping Bunny Certified No Yes (Fragrance) 71%

Uses conditioning agents to cleanse. Preserved with synthetic ingredients alongside fragrance.
Davines LOVE Curl Cleansing Cream $33 5.1 fl oz Vegan Not Certified No Yes (Fragrance) 57%

Uses mild, sugar-derived cleansing agents in a rinse-out formula. Preserved with a synthetic chelating agent (EDTA).
As I Am Coconut CoWash Cleansing Creme Conditioner $8.99 16 oz Vegan Not Certified No Yes (Fragrance) 57%

Uses a synthetic emulsifier and conditioning agents to cleanse. Preserved with a synthetic preservative.
Ouidad Coil Infusion Drink Up Cleansing Conditioner Co-Wash $30 12 oz Vegan Not Certified No Yes (Fragrance) 43%

Uses conditioning agents to cleanse. Preserved with several synthetic preservatives and a synthetic chelating agent (EDTA).
Paul Mitchell Tea Tree Lavender Mint Moisturizing Cowash $38.50 16.9 fl oz Vegan Not Certified No Yes (Fragrance) 43%

Contains silicones. Preserved with ingredients classified as contact allergens under EU regulation.
Cantu Shea Butter for Natural Hair Complete Conditioning Co-Wash ~$7 10 oz Not Vegan Not Certified No Yes (Fragrance) 29%

Uses conditioning and emulsifying agents to cleanse; no true detergent surfactant. Preserved with a synthetic chelating agent (EDTA).
Clean Factor methodology: percentage of 7 criteria met — vegan, Leaping Bunny certified, no sulfates, no synthetic fragrance (Parfum), no silicones, no EDTA/chelating agents, and functions as a disclosed cleansing agent rather than a conditioning-only formula. Scored against each product's full published ingredient list.

The Breakdown

Cantu Shea Butter for Natural Hair Complete Conditioning Co-Wash — ~$7 / 10 oz

Cetrimonium Chloride and Stearalkonium Chloride are the formula's primary conditioning agents, built to soften hair rather than lift residue off it. PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil and Ceteareth-20 round out the formula as emulsifiers, not amphiphilic cleansers designed to rinse residue away. The formula also contains Benzyl Benzoate, a fragrance ingredient flagged as a contact allergen on EWG's Skin Deep database, and Tetrasodium EDTA, a synthetic chelating agent.

Paul Mitchell Tea Tree Lavender Mint Moisturizing Cowash — $38.50 / 16.9 fl oz

Two silicones show up here, Trimethylsiloxyamodimethicone and Silicone Quaternium-3. Silicones aren't water-soluble, and a 2021 review in Skin Appendage Disorders found they require a stronger surfactant to remove fully, so each wash can leave another thin layer on the hair shaft. The formula is also preserved with Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone, ingredients linked to allergic contact dermatitis in peer-reviewed research, alongside Disodium EDTA and Trisodium HEDTA.

Ouidad Coil Infusion Drink Up Cleansing Conditioner Co-Wash — $30 / 12 oz

The formula is built on conditioning agents, not amphiphilic cleansing molecules, so "cleansing" here means loosening what's already loosely attached to the hair, not lifting it away with a rinse. It's preserved with BHT, Chlorphenesin, and Phenoxyethanol, three separate synthetic preservatives, along with Disodium EDTA and Tetrasodium EDTA.

Davines LOVE Curl Cleansing Cream — $33 / 5.1 fl oz

This one is a rinse-out formula: directions call for massaging it into damp hair, leaving it on for a few minutes, then rinsing thoroughly. It does contain genuine mild cleansing agents, Coco-Betaine and two sugar-derived surfactants (Capryloyl/Caproyl Methyl Glucamide and Lauroyl/Myristoyl Methyl Glucamide), alongside conditioning agents Behentrimonium Chloride and Cetrimonium Chloride. It's preserved with Disodium EDTA, a synthetic chelating agent.

DevaCurl Deva No-Poo Original Shampoo — $28 / 12 oz

This is one of the few on this list with true detergents in the formula: Laureth-4 and Cocamidopropyl Betaine, both milder than sulfates. It's preserved with Tetrasodium EDTA and Phenoxyethanol, and formulated with Isopropyl Alcohol and Menthol for a cooling effect.

Aveda Be Curly Advanced™ Co-Wash — $50 / 11.8 fl oz

Coco-Glucoside, a sugar-derived detergent, does the actual cleansing here, gentler chemistry than a sulfate. The formula still carries a synthetic fragrance blend alongside Citral, Citronellol, Eugenol, Geraniol, Limonene, and Linalool, all six recognized fragrance allergens under EU cosmetic regulation.

Curlsmith Curl Quenching Cleansing Conditioning Wash — $26 / 12 oz

Cocamidopropyl Betaine is the mild detergent doing the cleansing here. Curlsmith describes its own formula as "a conditioned base with a little cleansing," which is why the brand still recommends a separate conditioner for very dry hair. It's preserved with Disodium EDTA, a synthetic chelating agent.

Briogeo Avocado and Quinoa Co-Wash — $32 / 16 oz

Behentrimonium Methosulfate conditions the hair here instead of cleansing it, the same conditioning-not-cleansing chemistry found in several other co-washes on this list. It's preserved with Dehydroacetic Acid and Benzyl Alcohol, alongside a synthetic fragrance blend.

As I Am Coconut CoWash Cleansing Creme Conditioner — $8.99 / 16 oz

PEG-40 Castor Oil, a polyethylene glycol derivative, functions as the synthetic emulsifier here, alongside Cetrimonium Chloride as the conditioning agent. Neither is an amphiphilic cleanser. Phenoxyethanol is the preservative.

New Wash — $48 / 8 oz

New Wash sits at a higher price point, and that's by design. It occupies the middle of what Hairstory calls the cleansing-to-conditioning continuum: strong enough on the oil-loving side of its cleansing molecules to lift grease, product buildup, and dirt, weak enough on the water-loving side to leave the scalp's natural protective oil barrier intact.

One ingredient worth being transparent about: trace Phenoxyethanol, present at well below 0.001% as part of a botanical extract blend, within the safety thresholds set by the EU, FDA, and other international regulators. It's there to keep the formula stable and prevent microbial growth over the product's shelf life.

New Wash is vegan and Leaping Bunny Certified. It cleans with fatty alcohols and essential oils instead of detergents, replacing both shampoo and conditioner in one step. To understand why that distinction from the co-washes above matters, read everything you need to know about detergent and sulfates in shampoo: are they bad for your hair?

The Bottom Line

Most co-washes on this list clean the way conditioners do, by conditioning, not cleansing. That's a different place on the cleansing-to-conditioning continuum than shampoo or New Wash, not automatically a flaw, but it does mean the "cleansing" language on the label doesn't always match what the formula is doing. New Wash sits in the middle of that continuum: an amphiphilic system strong enough to lift buildup, gentle enough to leave the scalp's protective oils intact, without a separate conditioner step.

Ready to see the difference for yourself? Shop New Wash.

This article is for informational purposes and reflects publicly available ingredient disclosures as of August 2026. It is not medical advice; consult a dermatologist or physician with questions about a specific ingredient sensitivity or scalp condition.

Frequently Asked Questions

  • Do co-washes actually cleanse hair, or do they just condition it?
    Most co-washes on the market are built around conditioning agents like Behentrimonium Methosulfate and Cetrimonium Chloride, which soften hair rather than lift oil, dirt, and product buildup off the scalp. Of nine popular co-washes reviewed, only a handful — Aveda Be Curly Advanced Co-Wash, DevaCurl Deva No-Poo, and Curlsmith Curl Quenching Wash — use actual sulfate-free detergents to cleanse. The rest rely on conditioning chemistry and label it as cleansing, which is a different job entirely.
  • Are co-washes bad for curly hair?
    Co-washes aren't inherently bad for curly hair, but most function more like conditioners than cleansers, so product buildup can accumulate over time. Some brands acknowledge this directly: Curlsmith recommends pairing its co-wash with a separate conditioner for very dry hair, and Davines' Love Curl Cleansing Cream is meant to be left in rather than rinsed out. A curly routine built entirely around a conditioning-based co-wash may still need an actual cleansing step periodically.
  • Do co-washes contain sulfates?
    No — none of the nine popular co-washes examined, including Cantu, Paul Mitchell, Ouidad, Davines, DevaCurl, Aveda, Curlsmith, Briogeo, and As I Am, contain sulfates. Being sulfate-free doesn't mean a product cleanses, though; most of these formulas use conditioning agents or emulsifiers instead of true detergents to do the work.
  • What's the difference between New Wash and a typical co-wash?
    New Wash cleans with fatty alcohols and essential oils instead of detergents or conditioning agents alone, sitting in the middle of what Hairstory calls the cleansing-to-conditioning continuum. It's strong enough to lift oil, product buildup, and dirt, but gentle enough to leave the scalp's natural protective oil barrier intact, and it replaces both shampoo and conditioner in one step. Most co-washes, by contrast, use conditioning agents to soften hair without truly cleansing it.
  • Do popular co-washes contain synthetic fragrance allergens?
    Several do. Cantu's formula contains Coumarin, a fragrance ingredient flagged as a contact allergen, and Aveda's Be Curly Advanced Co-Wash contains six recognized EU fragrance allergens: Citral, Citronellol, Eugenol, Geraniol, Limonene, and Linalool. Paul Mitchell's Tea Tree Lavender Mint Cowash is also preserved with Methylchloroisothiazolinone and Methylisothiazolinone, both linked to allergic contact dermatitis in peer-reviewed research.
  • Does New Wash contain phenoxyethanol?
    Yes, in trace amounts — well below 0.001% — as part of a botanical extract blend that keeps the formula stable and prevents microbial growth. That level falls within the safety thresholds set by the EU, FDA, and other international regulators. Several co-washes in this comparison use phenoxyethanol at higher concentrations as their primary preservative.
  • Is New Wash vegan and cruelty-free?
    Yes, New Wash is vegan and Leaping Bunny Certified. Among the co-washes compared, only DevaCurl Deva No-Poo, Aveda Be Curly Advanced Co-Wash, Curlsmith Curl Quenching Wash, and Briogeo Avocado and Quinoa Co-Wash share that certification, while brands like Cantu, Davines, Ouidad, Paul Mitchell, and As I Am are not certified.
  • Do I need a separate conditioner if I use a co-wash?
    It depends on the formula. Curlsmith explicitly recommends a separate conditioner for very dry hair alongside its Curl Quenching Wash, and several other co-washes function primarily as conditioning treatments rather than true cleansers. New Wash, by comparison, is formulated to replace both shampoo and conditioner in a single step, so no separate conditioner is needed.

SO, WHAT’S YOUR STORY?

Chat with our AI stylist for a personalized recommendation.